Walking Tour and Paris History

On Friday we joined the Paris Walking Tours in the Latin Quarter for a jaunt surrounding the Mouffetard market street, an area that Hemmingway wrote about in his final book "A moveable Feast". Hemmingway stayed in these neighboorhoods and did not engage the other American Ex-Patriots writers during his stay in Paris. These walking tours are full of information and only cost 10 euros. For a 1.5 hour (we got two hours because our guide Chris was full of other information), it's a deal. He told us about where Paris got most of the limestone to build the many buildings and monuments. The limestone was mined under the city, to a point where it became dangerous and one neighboorhood actually collapsed. It is now against the law to explore in most of the catacombs under the city, and many have been filled in and/or reinforced to prevent cave ins. Limestone is a sedimentary stone, resulting from years and years of organisms piling up in the water that once filled the Paris basin.

This picture is a remaining section of a medival wall built to protect Paris from English invasion. It is made up of the limestone quarried from beneath the city.

Paris History

The present site of Paris was settled by a Celtic tribe know as the Parissi around 250 BC. Paris flurished due to the strategic location on the Seine, important for trade and commerce. The Romans took control around 52 BC and named the settlement Lutetia. In 212 the settlement was renamed Paris for the original tribe that settled the area. The Romans retained control until their empire crumbled in the 5th century.

In 451 Attilla the Hun was prepared to invade the area, and legend has it that St. Geneviève convinced the citizens of Paris stay and defend the city. Atilla instead diverted his army to Orleans, which was attributed to the prayers if St. Geneviève. She remains the patron saint of the city to this date.

Her remains were often paraded around the city when times were particularly bad. Supposedly this prevented the Germans from invading the city in WWI. During the French revolution as the French rejected all association with the Church and the Royal families, her remains were destroyed. This picture (from the Pantheon) depicts St. Geneviève convincing the Parisans not to flee the city.

This church, St Etienne-du-Mont, contains the last remaining fragment of St. Geneviève, a finger.

As part of the French revolution many references to Saints and royality were removed from public. Here is a picture containing a street sign from that period. The reference to Saint was chiseled from the sign.

Hemmingway stayed in the neighborhood surrounding the Mouffetard market street. This picture shows the building in which he lived during this period.

This picture is taken in the courtyard that James Joyce overlooked while he was wrote part of Ulysses.

Dessert and Night shots

Food has been one of the best parts of being in Paris. We usually have breakfast in the studio, and Pain au chocolat or some other fresh pastry is part of the mix. For lunches and dinners we most often eaten in outdoor cafes. Somtimes it's been a challenge to find an empty table and may take awhile to find the right place. We have not been disappointed. Each time we try a new place it seems as good or better than the last. Here is a picture of the desserts we had at a cafe near the Eiffel tower. Carol and Keith had a Cafe Gourmand with three petit desserts. They got creme brulee, moelleux chocolat (chocolate cake) and strawberries. I got Crepes with Nutella (chocolate crepes). Even simple food like an omlette seems to have a special taste to it. Maybe it's the fresh ingredients, or lack of preservatives. It just seems to taste better. I don't know how people stay skinny here. Perhaps their habits of walking or biking miles every day helps, but it's challenging me not to pack on the lbs.

After dessert we walked over to the watch the Eiffel tower light up. On the hour (starting at 10:00pm) the twinkle lights are illuminated for approximately 10 minutes. Here is a short videoshowing you the effect.

On our walk home tonight I got a shot of the Hotel de Ville (City Hall). It's a huge mansion containing the municpal offices including the mayors. City event are also held here.

Musée de Cluny

The Musée de Cluny (or the Musée National du Moyen-Age), is set in the Latin Quarter on the left bank. What's all this right/left bank talk. The river Seine runs basically westward through the City of Paris. As you travel with the current the Left bank is where the Latin Quarter (one of the oldest areas) is. The Musee de Cluny contains many religous medival relics. The building is one of the few civic examples lof medival architecture left, dating from around 1334.

La Dame à la Licorne (The Lady and the Unicorn). This series of tapistries, each containing the lady and the unicorn) reflect the five senses of taste, hearing, sight, smell, and touch. What the last tapestry entitled À Mon Seul Désir (To my only desire) represents is debated. Some feel it represents the sixth sense of understanding, others feel it is a renunciation of the passions aroused by the other senses, and an assertion of free will. There are several historical novels written that refer to the seventh unicorn.

There are many other medival relics in the museum, most of them are of religous nature.

The museum was free for the months of May and June, so it was a bargin. We got the English self guided tour which really helped understand the contents. For 1 Euro, it was a deal.

Opera de Paris Garnier

The Garnier Opera house is one of the most stunning buildings in Paris. It was designed by Charles Garnier, an unknown, out of 171 plans submitted by various competitors. After construction of the Opera house Garnier received an appointment with the French Government that afforded him review and approval of all State buildings. The theatre is impressive from the outside and equally ornate and magnificant on the inside. It was opened in 1871, at a time when going to the opera was a lavish event. Many of the famous impressionist painters frequented this opera house (probably most often with someone other than their wives).

The great staircase is lavishly decorated with many multicolored marbles quarried from different parts of France. The only stone not mined in France is that that makes up the white flooring material.

The equally magnifienct Grand Foyer, where people gathered during the intermission, is a wonder to behold. The chandeliers, guilded walls and fresco ceilings are beautiful.

Tickets for the opera run from 10 euros (where you can't see unless you stand up), to 150 euros for an orchestra seat and select boxes.

The auditorium consists of the orchestra seats and box seats that surround the performance space. Each box seat has a private area in the rear where curtains can be pulled for privacy.

The auditorium ceiling was replaced by Marc Chagall in 1964 with a mureal that to me looks out of place. The colors supposedly appoach the original colors of the original ceiling.

If you have the opportunity, it is a must see. Make sure you get the English (or language of your choice) guided tour. It is well worth the 12 euros. We received an over two hour tour of the Opera house which was worth every euro penny.

We got a little off track coming home (ended up fairly far north). We should have checked our maps more frequently. That's what happens when you get over confident. Not all roads in Paris run east/west or North South, especially in this district.

A day of fine art and music

Musée D’Orsay

Could life be better? Fine art and good music, a good day indeed. After a early breakfast we were off to Musée D’Orsay. This museum was constructed in a huge railway station (Gare). It was transformed into a museum in 1974. The structure itself is impressive, not to mention it’s contents. The openness of the building provides a unique display for some of the greatest art in the world. The collections cover the years 1848-1914, and spans the styles of Neoclassicism through Impressionism. It is not an experience that I can adequately describe.

Art and music appeal to me on a level that I find difficult to put into words. When I read a review, or someone else's interpretation of music or art, I do not connect. Art is personal, it affects me at the core, it touches the emotions without the pre-screening of the intellect. Some people like to think that it appeals to a higher nature of humanity. I feel that it touches the baseness of our emotions that are common to all individuals.

The museum allows non-flash photography, and I took many pictures. I have included a few here, only to represent some of the great works that we saw. You really have to see the artwork to appreciate it fully.

This piece "Dancing at the Moulin Rouge" was painted by Toulouse-Lautrec for a dancer to promote her new show. The painting changed hands many times and was divided up into 8 separate sections. You can see some of the section lines. The state purchased them and rejoined the fragments.

This piece by Gustave Caillebotte entitled "The Floor Scrapers" captures such detail in depth and reflection. It is considered part of the impressionist period, but to my untrained eye seems much more realism.

After many hours of browsing the art collection, we stopped for lunch in the Museum restaurant. The room we had lunch in was classically beautiful. It reminded me of the French restaurant at the Culinary Institute in Hyde Park. The atmosphere was formal, but the service was quick and efficient.

The shadows and faces of this painting seem to tell a story. I don't recall the artist or title, but it struck me as significant.

The last piece by Vincent Van Gogh is rather famous - Starry Night

This is a small sample of the many painting that exist in the museum. There are also many sculptures and other decorative arts in the museum. It is a must see in Paris.

After the museum we stopped and enjoyed a carafe of wine (or two). Then, as planned, we stopped into St. Severin church for a free concert. We were pleasantly surprised by the performance of "The Capella of Calvin College". When we entered the church we carefully sat near the edge so that we could inconspicuously leave, if necessary. Once they started, there was no question. We were staying for the entire performance. They were good. Please pardon my whispering at the beginning. I was taken aback by their sound. They perform "hope, faith, life, love" by Eric Whitacre.

The video was just too big to post, sorry. But here it is on YouTube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ch1xLWD2xn4

The Walk About

We set out early on our first full day in Paris. Breakfast at 8:00am in our studio and out on the streets by 10. Our intent was to visit The Cluny Museum, but of course we were side tracked by all of the sites. It was a beautiful day, so instead we walked the city (more than 15 miles worth).

As we approached the Seine, just south of our studio in the Marais, Notre Dame came into sight. In 2004 one tower was under cleaning and it just didn't look as spectacular.

Notre Dame is on and island in the Seine River (Ile de la Cite).

Here I am in front of the glorious Cathedral. Not sure who the big butt is. A little lipo would go a long ways.

Our trip in 2004 was a choral tour and the highlight was singing in Notre Dame following a dedication ceremony for a new altar. The acoustics are amazing and singing there was a dream come true. Not many groups get that opportunity. We warmed up in the catacombs under the church.

I will always have a connection to this place and can see myself returning many times.

We crossed the Seine to the Latin Quarter and walked along the river taking in all of the sites.

The bridges along the river are really spectacular. Some are ornately decorated and others are modern and stark. Several are dedicated to pedestrians only. In the States bridges are rarely a work of art, here ornate statues are common. Yes, it was a different time when these were constructed, but here great attention is paid to every aspect of a project. Controversy is common when new projects are proposed, as everyone is concerned with how things look. I found this statue particularlly odd. It is the back end of a large Lion. The attention to detail is amazing.

We continued along the south side of the river until we came to the neigborhood where Carol stayed when she was taking classes in French, on one of her many trips to France. One street in the area is well know from Rick Steves travel guides. He loves Rue Cler and highly reccomends it. The last couple of blocks are restricted to pedestrians only. There are open markets of all sorts.

The French take many things seriously. Flowers are enjoyed by all. It is very common to find people purchasing flowers for no occasion other than to enjoy their beauty. In the States we reserve this for special events. I think we are missing the point. This picture shows you how serious they really are about flowers. It is a shop called Cler Fleurs and the roses are just piled high. I can't image the value when you think $50 per dozen.

Around the corner we approached the Parc du Champ de Mars. The park leading to the most well know site in Paris...

Tour Eiffel

This shot is taken through the Monument to Peace, which is at the end of the Park. The park was full of tourists and natives. A game of soccer, kids playing in the grass, families picnicing and enjoying the view. It is early in the season, so the crowds weren't really heavy. I can only imagine how crowded it gets in July and August. The park was full of various flowers. Most of the perrenials were in bloom and many annuals were well on their way.

We crossed under the the Eiffel tower, crossed the Pont D'léna and entered the Jardins du Trocadero. On the hill there are several museums. The view from the top was worth the many flights of stairs. Looking back you can see that we have traveled a distance.

We were on the right bank (north side) of the Seine, and began our return. Along the way we approached the place where Lady Diana was killed (near Pont D’alma). People still leave flowers on the Freedom Flame that has become associated with her death. After more than 10 years it still brings a tear to see the many words written in her name along the walls of the bridge. Someone left two burning candles for Diana and Dodi.

We crossed the Seine and began looking for a place to eat. As it was Sunday, many places were closed and those that were open had no avaliable seats outside. The sun was shining and we really wanted to sit outside. Finally after many turns and rambling we came upon the Café Colombier. We had to add a chair to the table, and soon we had wine and lunch.

After a nice omlette and salad we were off to the Jardin du Luxemborg. As usual we got side tracked when we came upon Église Saint-Sulpice (one of the churches in book/movie The Da Vinci code (I think were the monk gets it). It has an unusual look to it, with many columns incorporated in the design. The church was erected over an ancient Roman church and looks like it retained some of the original design.

The gardens of Luxemborg had many statues to famous composers and poets. Lawn chairs are scattered throughout the gardens. People sit and read in the bucolic setting. Here is a replica of a famous statue in New York Harbor. Of course the Statue of Liberty was presented to the United States by the people of France in 1886. It was designed by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi.

Every Sunday afternoon at 4:30 Notre Dame has a free organ concert. The line was long, but we made it inside just as Mathieu Freyburger was beginning his first piece. His performance was inspirational, especially in that setting. I tried the video option on my camera. I guess I should practice a little more. The sound was phenomenal and this does not do it justice.

We returned home for snacks. Later that night we went out to the Galway Irish Pub. This is a place that Keith and I found in 2004. We were walking along the Seine and a the sky opened up. We ducked into this pub for a drink. I remember a sign that they had posted in the bar. It said “Bush must Go”. It really upsets me that we are still saying that 4 years later. Thank God for the two term limit. I just don’t understand how we could have voted him in for a second time. Fear is a powerful force in American politics.

This bar is a place the Carol has frequented in her earlier trips to Paris. It's funny that we found it independently. We stayed out far too long, but made it home safely.

The day has finally arrived

The Journey

After a long week at work and last minute packing we finally began our journey. Here we are ready to begin our journey. Tom, Keith and Carol (what a motley crew).

We started in Halfmoon, NY and drove to Newark to catch the airplane. Boy that was fun. We had a heck of a time finding the parking lot where I had made reservations. E-Z Parking ain’t so E-Z to find. After a lot of wrong turns, and no yelling I might add, we made it.

So the flight was on Air India. We were fearful, after hearing stories about overrunning toilets, but all was fine. Unless you are flying first class you feel like a bunch of cattle anyways (oh they are sacred in India - well maybe chickens). After a short wait on the tarmat (1 hour is now defined as a short wait for a takeoff), we had an uneventful flight. Most of the other passengers were continuing on to Bombay (Mumbai).


Last Leg (it sure felt like we were on our's)

Once arriving in Paris, we took the train into the city. It was really easy, once we figured out how to get through the turn style with luggage. It only took three of us to figure out there was another shoot to send your luggage through. Carol and I both got caught mid- Turn Style (sounds like a song title). I’m sure it was funny to some of the natives. Good thing we don’t mind making fools of ourselves. It’s gonna be a fun trip, I can tell already.












Voilá

So, on the first day you are absolutely freaking tired. We couldn’t find the apartment (addresses are not always sequential here). With a call to Florence we finally found the place, and quickly got orientated. Then we set off to find Carols studio. She is staying in the same place as last year, so she knew exactly how to get there. After we both settled in it was out for dinner. The picture is Carol looking out her window, as we returned to her place. We split a litre of wine (I think I had most of it) and then went shopping in the Marche. I saw so many new interesting things to try. That is what I love most about traveling – Le difference- seeing new places, trying new food and learning new ways to look at the world. We picked up a lot of things and went home for a nap.

More adventure demain (tomorrow)!!!