Monday, June 9, 2008

Stepping It Up

Memorial to the Martyrs of Deportation

Tucked behind Notre Dame is a less know memorial dedicated to the victims deported by Adolf Hitler’s campaign from 1933 to 1945. The memorial has it's own slant and mentions the victims in this order - political opponents, members of the Resistance, social misfits, homosexuals, Jehovah witnesses, and anyone that did not meet the criteria of the Aryan race (Jews, Slavs, Gypsies and the handicapped). It clearly recognizes the persecution inflicted on the Jewish race during Hitler’s reign, but also focuses on how that regime affected Paris specifically.
The role of the Resistance and France's efforts in World War II, have been a disputed topic for years. Some feel that the country did not put every effort in fighting the Germans. Others feel that France was so wounded by World War I that many people did not have the appetite for mass death and destruction. France was defeated by Hitler in 1940, and Paris was not liberated until August, 25 1944. Clearly, the Resistance contributed significantly to the efforts of the eventual liberation of France from the tight grip of Hitler through sabotage, intelligence and guerilla warfare.






The tiny lights in the underground memorial represent the many lives that were extinguished during the deportation of great numbers during the occupation.









Montmartre

Today we visited several of the sites originally planned. Sacré-Cœur is visible from most parts of Paris. The name translates sacred heart (of Jesus). The basilica sits on the mount of Montmartre. The view from the basilica is breathtaking. Paris does have its share of air pollution, so haze is common even on a clear day. This was one of the best weather days that we have had so far. The sun came out and shone brightly. It couldn't be a better day for picture taking. We took the metro as close as we could, because we knew that there would be many steps to the top.

Two statues face the basilica; Joan of Arc and King Saint Louis IX.










The surrounding neighborhoods are equally interesting, with many famous sites. In its day many artists congregated and lived in the surrounding hills. Pablo Picasso lived in a commune for a period near the top of the hill.

The Lapin Agile was a favorite spot for struggling artists and writers. Its name has changed many times, but was originally called "Cabaret des Assassins". It was a seedy joint at best.


After our visit to Montmartre, we ambled back down the hill and had a nice lunch in a cafe. There was a group of American's next to us discussing world affairs. The talked on high platitudes and seemed less than informed. Can you say "ugly American". I guess that reputation is sometimes deserved.



Champs-Élysées

We decided there was sufficient time to hit another site. We hopped in the metro and were at the Arc de Triomphe in no time flat. The metro is very efficient and trains are very frequent. We found them to be very safe. The arc honors those who fought for France, and is in the center of Place de l'Étoile (star square), where 12 avenues meet in a star pattern. One of the major avenues originating from this point is the Champs-Élysées. It is lined with high end stores similar to Fifth Avenue in New York City.





Place de la Concorde

We walked down the avenue to Place de la Concorde. During the French revolution this square was renamed "Place de la Révolution". This is where the guillotine was erected and several famous people were executed including Marie Antoinette. In the center of the square is a giant Egyptian obelisk which was giving to the French in the XIX century. Some wonder how freely it was given.








Just beyond the Place de la Concorde are the Jardin des Tuileries. There are several fountains and many people just hang out around them sunning. It was one of the first days in a long time for that type of activity so many were partaking. We stopped in the gardens for some Glace and wine. It was lovely to watch the ducks frolic in the pond and feel a nice cool breeze.



Just beyond the gardens is the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel. It stands in front of the Louvre. The original horses on top of the Arc were taken from Saint Mark's Cathedral in Venice by Napoleon. They were returned to Venice and have been replaced. We saw the original horses just a few months ago on an APM trip to Italy.







We continued home and were off shopping, as tomorrow is our second anniversary. We wanted to get some things to prepare for the day. On our shopping adventures we went into a famous department store here called BHV. We were amazed at this vertical garden that is on the outside of the store. The picture is deceptive; the garden is vertical and goes up almost three floors.

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